coastline region
An ocean of opportunities for sport and leisure, the Kenyan Coast consists of long stretches of white beaches fringed with coconut palms and casuarina trees, between coral headlands broken by occasional river creeks. Most of the coastline is protected by a coral reef half a mile out in the Indian Ocean. This allows for safe bathing and fascinating goggling and scuba diving. The coast forms a complete contrast to the rest of the country not only in climate and scenery but also in populace history.
Historians have mentioned the coastline of East Africa for a thousand years or more. The Greek geographer, Ptolemy, mentioned the Great Lakes and the snow-capped mountains of East Africa in the 2nd century A.D .The Persians were here in the 9th and 10th century and thereafter Arabs and Turks. The Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama, was here at the end of the 15th century but after nearly two centuries of Portuguese domination of the coastal strip. The Arabs re-established themselves along the East African coast and it was not until the turn of the century that trading began to flourish in the conventional way. These foreign contacts have left their mark on today’s Kenya and one finds a mixture of peoples and architectural styles. Up and down the coast modern discoverers will find fascinating relics of ancient cultures.
In many parts of the world deep sea fishing is the prerogative of the very rich, but here it is within everybody’s reach. The principal fishing centers are Malindi, Watamu, Kilifi, Mombasa and particularly Shimoni. During the main fishing season (September to the end of April), record catches are taken of marlin, shark, sailfish, bonito, tunny and wahoo; large marlin are also fished in July and August, although the southeast monsoon makes the sea rough during these months. Boats and tackle are available for hire at the principal fishing centers at a reasonable price.
For those who would rather view than kill, marine parks set aside for the protection of the indigenous marine life give opportunities for scuba diving, goggling and underwater photography. There you will find intricate coral formation just beneath the surface, a myriad of multi-colored fish and lush underwater vegetation. Hours can be spent browsing in this park either from a glass-bottomed boat or using the snorkel equipment carried by all the boats. Kenya has marine parks at Malindi, Watamu and Shimoni. These parks are open all year round, but are at their best between October and March. They are best visited at low tide.
Lamu Island is probably Africa’s last stronghold of Shirazi customs and architecture.
With its flat-topped, courtyarded, white walled houses lining narrow, shaded streets (no motor vehicles or bicycles permitted) as much of the commercial and social life of Lamu is conducted outside its residences as within. Fine carvings, mosques, ancient monuments and spectacular seafront delight the eye. The many types of sea-going craft around Lamu are fascinating, and the rhythmic beat of drums with accompanying tympani and clacking of coconut shells from the graceful dhows arriving from other islands, or more distant ports, is as haunting and unforgettable a coastal memory.
The islands of Pate and Manda may be reached by boat “bus” or by privately hired cruisers. On Manda Island are the well-preserved ruins of Takwa Village dating from the 16th and 17th Centuries. Recent archaeological work on the ruin of Manda town at the northern end of the island has established this to be of the oldest settlements on the Kenyan coast.
30 km (19 miles) northeast of Lamu is Pate Island and the ruined towns of Faza and Siyu. Unless you catch the right tide for your visit to Pate town you will have a long but fascinating hike the southern end of the island.
Malindi, 112 km (70 miles) north of Mombasa and 240 (150 miles) south of Lamu, is a small resort, which since the 1940’s has been a favored holiday spot with “up country” residents. In recent years Malindi has gained international attention, but it still remains a small picturesque village with tall whitewashed houses, narrow streets, a few shops and a fish market on the harbor front. Beyond the harbor is Vasco Da Gama’s Point, where the explorer planted a pillar surmounted by a cross of Lisbon Stone in 1498. Malindi combines the traditional with the new and unconventional and is popular with visitors in search of a relaxing beach holiday.
North of the town the golden sands of Malindi Bay stretch for 8 kilometers towards the Sabaki River. Along this bay a break in the reef allows in heavy surf from the Indian Ocean, and during August and September the rollers are at their best for “belly surfing”.
South of Malindi is beautiful white silversands beach, sheltered by the reef and ideal for bathing and shell spotting while 140 kilometers up-country from Malindi, is Galana Ranch. This unfenced cattle and game ranch offers game viewing by vehicles, foot or riding camels over its 1.5 million acres.
14 Kilometers south of Malindi lies the ruins of Gedi, an Arab colonial city, mysteriously deserted in the 16th Century. The 45 acres ruined town is preserved as an historical monument (open daily). Gedi is on the fringe of the Sokoke Arabuko Forest, which runs parallel to the coastline as far as Kilifi. Natural rubber and other indigenous trees, and the presence of 2 rare species - the yellow rumped elephant shrew and the Zanzibar duiker make this area of special interest to the naturalist. There are also a number of uncommon birds.
Beyond Turtle Bay, towards Kilifi at the mouth of Mida Creek, hidden in the tunnel in the coral, is found one of the most exciting sights in the marine parks – a collection of large groupers or rock cod – 2 meters long and weighing several hundred kilos. The hotels on Turtle Bay arrange for the more adventurous scuba divers to view these enormous fish.
Mida Creek itself, is a vast area of mangrove swamps, mud flats and narrow twisting passages, reached via a narrow channel from the sea and, at certain times of the year, the bird life both indigenous and migratory is incomparable. The Creek is also visited by, snakes and oyster collectors.
Not everyone realizes that Mombasa is, in fact, an island served by two fine deep harbors. At Mombasa old harbor the picturesque dhows from the East arrive and depart with the monsoon winds, while the big ocean liners park at Kilindini Harbor. These natural port facilities have given the Island competitive history dating back to the Middle Ages. The early name of Mombasa “Kisiwani cha Mvita” – “The Island of War!” Mombasa is served by Moi International Airport and is joined to Nairobi by road and rail. The old harbor and old town are major tourist attractions, comprising a tradition of waterfront, customs house, fish market and a maze of narrow streets and passages. Nearby is Fort Jesus, constructed in 1593 and the scene of many battles between the Portuguese and their various enemies. Today it is a Museum of coastal antiquities. Mombasa has many curio shops, and is a good place to buy the colorful cotton kikois and kangas worn by the local town people. The businessmen on a short visit to Mombasa, which is Kenya’s second trading city, will find comfortable and air-conditioned accommodation at the Castle Hotel or at the older Manor Hotel.
Driving South from Mombasa, one crosses Kilindini Creek by the Likoni Ferry to reach the South Mainland. Some 30 kilometers along the coast from Mombasa is Diani Beach, the main resort area of the South Coast, where many hotels are situated along 5 kilometers of white sandy beach shaded by palms.
ARABUKO SOKOKE FOREST RESERVE
Altitude: 500 to 800 feet above sea level.
Area: 6 square kilometers.
Airstrips: Kilifi airstrip, Malindi and Mombasa Airports
Opened: 1943
Activities: Bird Watching, Walking Trails, Hiking
Arabuko Sokoke was proclaimed a Crown Forest and gazetted in 1943. Part of the forest was gazetted as a strict nature reserve in the late 1960s. The reserve lies a few kilometers inland, between the towns of Kilifi and Malindi, 110 km north of Mombasa town. It is the largest existing fragment of the tropical forests that covered much of the East African coast and is an important habitat for endemic/endangered birds, insects, repltiles and mammal species.
The Arabuko Sokoke Forest is considered to be one of the most important sites for nature conservation in East Africa. It is the last large remnant of lowland coastal tropical forests with 11 threatened woody plants. The reserve is comprised of several distinct forest types; ranging from forests in the east, dense thickets in the west and thick shrubs in the north.
There are two areas of relatively tall cynometra forest with a canoppy height of up to 20 meters and sapling tangle ranging from 3 to 6 meters tall with emergent trees (10 meters) of Brachylaena hutchinsii, which is currently threatened in Kenya.
The area is also host to a wide variety of reptilian species such as the Sand Lizard, Day Geulo, Boomslang, Twig Snake, Green Mamba and Forest Cobra as well as diverse insect and birdlife with over 6 species of butterflies, and over 50 species of birdlife.
KISITE & MPUNGUTI & DIANI MARINE NATIONAL PARKS:
Area: 28 square kilometers.
Airstrips: Ukunda (Diani) – 25 Kms.
Opened: June 1978
Activities: Dhow trips, goggling, caving.
At the southernmost point of Kenya’s 500 kms coastline lie some of the East Africa’s most colorful coral gardens. Located 4-8 kilometers out to sea from Shimoni and next to Wasini Island, noted for its coral gardens, the Kisite Marine National Park is beautiful and intact.
The entire Marine National Park is in shallow water. It can be reached easily, by motor boat or traditional Dhow, from Shimoni. The Kisite coral reefs are estimated to be 3-4 kms long running along the near and outer-edges of the reefs from Mpunguti Islands to the tiny coral island of Kisite itself. The reef at Kisite and Mpunguti Marine National Park are scientifically important habitats, one of the most complex Eco-systems on this planet.
45 varieties of coral have so far been identified including staghorn, brain, mushroom and pencil species of live coral that are easy to goggle over and deep enough to avoid damage from human contact. The sheer numbers of fish (over 250 species recorded) feeding around the coral is an amazing sight. Kisite is a feast of color and movement with eye-catching coral fish including butterfly, parrot, rock cod, angelfish and rays.
Dolphins are common, as are big shoals of bonito and frigate mackerel. Nearby Shimoni is the home of families of fresh water porpoises, which cruise in and out of the Kisite Marine Park and are frequently seen in the channel between the mainland and Shimoni. “Shimo” means hole or cave in Swahili and historically smugglers and slavers used these caves. Some caves have freshwater springs flowing into the sea reputed to come from Kilimanjaro, 100 miles inland.
Further up the coastline, just south of Mombasa, is Diani/Chale Marine Reserve, opened in July 1995. This Marine Reserve was created to protect its fragile coral reef, with excellent coral stocks and fish species. The reserve also allows a range of marine activities including traditional Dhow fishing trips, snorkeling, sailing and other non-motorized water sports, as well as viewing excursions in glass-bottomed boats.
MALINDI AND WATAMU MARINE NATIONAL PARKS:
Area: 213 square kilometers.
Airstrips: Malindi – 25 Kms.
Opened: March 1968
Activities: Goggling, exploring mangrove forest.
Famous for its vast stretches of casurina fringed white sandy beaches, the coastal resorts of Malindi and Watamu are also world leaders in the accessibility, beauty and diversity of marine life which lives just off-shore on Barracuda and North Reef coral reefs and Turtle and Whale islands.
Watamu Marine National Park and Reserve engulfs the Mida Creek mangrove forest where young coral begins its existence before the tides take it out to the reefs beyond. The forest roots are rich in fish, crabs, prawns and oysters and also excellent for bird watching. Tewa Caves, near the mouth of the creek, are partly underwater - here Giant Groupers (up to 800 Lbs) live with many other exotic fish species. On land Giant Monitor Lizards, dik-dik, mongoose and monkeys.
The coral reefs are home to over 140 species of hard and soft corals. Their symbiotic relationship with the chlorophyll-generating animals, gives the coral their spectacular nighttime phosphorescent colors. The reef plays a diverse role. As well as bio-diversity strongholds, they are breeding grounds for fish and other marine life, a vital barrier against the force of the sea, protecting marine organisms and tourist recreation, they keep out dangerous sharks common to the deeper waters, and their color and the exotic coral fish they support provides a major attraction for tourists. Historic Gedi Ruins and Lamu Islands offer exciting day trips.
There is an excellent range of accommodation along this stretch of the coastline.
Kiunga Marine National Park is located at the northernmost stretch of the coastline. It has reefs interspersed with 50 limestone islands, which provide vital nesting areas for migratory sea birds and are home to bushbuck and other terrestrial game. The park opened in October 1979 and provides a refuge for the rare sea turtles and dugongs. 150-year-old giant clams lie off the reef.
A recent K.W.S. marine wildlife census counted a record population of dugongs, living in these waters. The dugong, half mammal, half fish has a semi-human physiognomy and is said to be the origin of the mermaid legend.
Adjacent to Kiunga are the Dodori and Boni National Reserves opened in 1976 to preserve a breeding ground for the East Lamu Topi, Pelicans and other local birdlife. Covering 877 sq. kms, with views of Dodori River and creek outlet with the densest, most varied species of mangrove forest in Kenya. Lion, Lesser Kudu, giraffe and hippo are also common to this Reserve.
Boni National Reserve is a 1,339sq. Km forest reserve created as a sanctuary for elephant, from Garissa and Lamu. Buffalo, giraffe, topi, gerenuk, Harvey’s and Ader’s Duikers are also found here.
These Reserves do not have accommodation but could make interesting excursions for small groups of keen naturalists, if prior arrangements are made through the K.W.S.
SHIMBA HILLS NATIONAL RESERVE
Altitude: 800 feet above sea level.
Area: 320 square kilometers.
Airstrips: Ukunda – 40 Kilometers
Opened: September 1968
Activities: Game viewing, Walks, Scenic beauty, Excursions from the Coast
For a contrasting excursion from the coast, Shimba hills National Reserve is an easy drive and offers beautiful, lush scenery. It has a unique and botanically rich coastal rainforest. Two of Kenyan’s most beautiful orchids can be found here. Another rare species, unique to the reserve, is the sable Antelope with its handsome near -black coat. Game includes; buffalo, elephant, giraffe, lion, leopard and several primates. The best places to see wildlife are on the flat grasslands near the spectacular Sheldrick’s falls and on the Lango plains near Giriama point with a tremendous view over rolling parkland to the escarpment, from where you can look out to the Indian Ocean. There are a number of short walking trails at elephant lookout and Pengo Hill and the falls.